It was a restless week night when I was feeling stuck and alone in my dimly lit room, I stumbled upon an article that spoke about creating ONE once in a lifetime experience with a story to share for generations. Since I’ve always been a person who wanted to do things that are distinctively unconventional, my sleepy eyes lit up and I started to read up on Everest Base Camp (EBC).
Being an avid hiker and a nature lover, to conquer another mountain seemed like something I’d never say no to, but this time I wanted some extra spice - to experience a different culture and to really push myself out of my comfort zone. It was none other than a 13-day hike up to Everest Base Camp which stands at 5,364m above sea level that would fill all the criteria for this grand adventure. I managed to cajole a group of 5 other friends to join me on this hike and set about to find a hiking agency that would guide us there!
Reading up blog articles online, I found that the trail to EBC is definitely not a walk in the park, requiring a high level of fitness, as well as the tenacity and dedication to endure 6-12 hours of hiking daily, for 13 days in a row. I had my tunnel vision set on making it, by hook or by crook!
Every day without fail leading up to the day of departure to Kathmandu on the 30th of March 2019, I took daily brisk walks that would last me about 3 hours at least and covered up to 16-20km with strength training for my legs on alternate days. Juggling working full-time, I could only do it after dinner and my training would usually last me past midnight accompanied with a motivational podcast or upbeat music playing in my ears. This prepping journey lasted for at least 3 months, with it being more intense and me getting anxious as the date draws near.
Looking classy awaiting for our flight at KLIA - Kathmandu! (2 more friends departing from SG & HK)
On the 31st of March, our adventure began on a flight to Lukla, the world’s most renowned and dangerous airport’s runway due to its short length which hangs off a cliff. Just a few weeks ago, there was a fatal plane crash in that airport. There was no other way to get there. Hence, in Yeti Airlines we trust!
Shortest airway hanging off the cliff at Lukla
Thankfully, we arrived without a hitch and upon stepping out of the aircraft, I took in my very first breath of the Himalayan fresh air. The simple sight of local kids playing at the side of a muddy road, just smiling and waving at us walking past brought contentment to my heart, reminding me that I should be grateful for the blessings in my life.
When we started the hike on the 1st of April 2019 from Lukla to Phakding, I was STILL thinking to myself if I can really April’s fool myself out of this. Every day for the next 13 days had its ups and downs, with unforgiving weather that made the hike more challenging. Some days were blessed with bright sunshine, whilst some days we were challenged with torrential rain and muddy / slippery terrain. With 8-10kgs on our backs carrying water, food, medication and extra clothes for emergencies, we had to carefully plan based on the weather and the expected duration of the hike, as well as the length of journey in kms.
Still all smiles before taking our first step of our hike, not knowing what to expect and what’s ahead awaiting us.
Being an animal lover, one daily aspect that I witnessed that brought me heartfelt moments was that livestocks such as yaks, donkeys and horses are given priority on terrains and full respect, where hikers are obligated to give way. These livestocks played important roles in the Sherpa and hikers community, where they carried necessities such as gas tongs and other large and heavy items that made sure lodges had enough supplies to maintain one of Nepal’s driving economy, which is tourism. Plus, they are usually oblivious and unaware of what’s on their backs and may stop midway for a breather. (Sometimes to take a dump in the middle of the road) so you have full responsibility for your own surrounding and dodging a livestock and respecting its way, which I found to be something really endearing to watch daily.
A yak found its way up a slope to take a grand dump, in which its droppings were falling onto passerbys lol!
My proudest ‘National Geographic’ shot by me of my favourite animal in Nepal! Gigantic, magnificent yet gentle.
A typical daily hike towards EBC started off with breakfast with hot tea, energy bars/drinks and high energy. Aside from getting myself to the destination, I never stopped appreciating the beauty of my surroundings. On most days, the terrains are mostly flat, with some ascents and descends throughout.
I thought I was on Mt. Fuji at one point.
My fellow comrades whom I gathered from MY, SG and HK to join me on this adventure!
Namche Bazaar, biggest Sherpa Town, located in Khumbu Village.
One day, it was snowing heavily on our hike from Dingboche to Lobuche with temperatures dropping to below -15 degrees Celsius and the entire terrain was covered in snow. The terrain was also narrow, if we took a wrong step, we would slip and fall. Visibility was also vague, we couldn’t see the direction. Relying on the shoes that we were wearing to maintain grip and working together as a team to ensure everyone was safe was essential. On this day, the 6.6km hike lasted us 12 grueling hours in the snow. The snow didn’t stop, we were drenched, cold and hungry but we were still determined to reach our destination. Baby steps in the right direction, patience and bravery were what brought us through. I will always remember this day whenever things get tough and when I want to give up. I will remember how I was able to surprise myself in reaching my destination although I was mentally and physically ready to give up.
Started the Journey to Lobuche with clear skies and no signs of snow! On mountains, weathers can change drastically and without warning!
A pop of colours from the hikers in a dull background and surrounding (only 3 hours into the journey)
Not long after arriving at the destination, I fell really sick with acute mountain sickness (AMS) and threw up. AMS does not discriminate. It hits even the strongest person and you can’t prepare for it. No amount of hot tea and dhal with rice could ease my worn-out body. Garlic broth was all I could take (a special food for people who had AMS and which actually tasted delish!) The cold had reached my bones and my oxygen level dropped below the safe level of 40. Luckily, my friends and guides came to my rescue with hot bags to bring my temperature back up. At this stage where oxygen level is low, my heart rate was above 130, making it impossible to rest. It was like I was jogging in bed, panting and restless.
On days like these, when the going gets tough, I found that staying in the right attitude and mindset together was important.
Moustache man plating of daily staple dishes at rest stops. Papadom is always on point and always the reward! But why only half? :(
After 12 hours of grueling endurance, we arrived at Lobuche at 5,030 above sea level.
As we climbed higher and higher, the air got thinner and we saw people who were carried back down by porters on their backs or ferried off the mountain by helicopters. That season, the weather was unusually hazardous and cold. We even came across a dead body, who was later identified as one of the porters. I was completely taken aback by the sight and our hearts were broken. The fear in me was undoubtedly at its highest but there was no turning back at this point. On the day we were ascending to our final destination of EBC, the snow still did not slow down but we made it! Initially, many did not want to risk their lives and stayed back at the lodge, but I told myself, along with the support of my guides and friends that we will do this together. Moral support and teamwork were so important and I did not want to disappoint myself and my friends.
Taken at Gorak Shep, on the way to EBC! One last shot, team!
Made it with all smiles! Yes, I came all this way to take a pic with a rock lol!
We were looking forward to beginning our descent back to Phakding and eventually Kathmandu. I was looking forward to eating some really good fried chicken and char kuey teow. That was my key motivation. The descent took us only 4 days, vs the ascend which took us 9 days.
“Are we there yet?” Every bridge we crossed, it reminds me how close we are to home, how close to becoming a champ
Not fried chicken but the BEST KEBAB I’ve ever had which is in Thamel City (where hikers lived before the hike in Kathmandu) would do! Message me to find out where ;)
Some key lessons from this hike are that you cannot be 100% prepared for anything in life. The uncertainty aspectsin this hike, such as the weather conditions and your physical and mental state were variables, something that we cannot control during these extremes. What I knew was that, every day I pushed myself beyond my limits and that was when I knew that I am capable of learning and going beyond my limits when push comes to shove, and when choice was not an option - including eating dhal and rice everyday for 13 days as fuel for the body.
It’s always okay to not know what’s ahead of me or when things hit me differently or in an unexpected manner. The best way around it is to try to adapt to new situations fast and absorb new ways so I can manage it better. Also, it’s definitely okay to take baby steps when I am unsure, as long as I am moving forward in the right direction. Most importantly, to have faith, to stay in my best behavior always and never forget to have fun!
Despite the challenges, I will always miss the peaceful rhymes of bells chiming from nearby monasteries, the chanting emanating from these monasteries, birds chirping and prayer flags flapping, not forgetting the beautiful gigantic mountainous sight. Also, because the higher we ascended, the weaker the phone connection was, forcing everyone to talk, connect and find activities such as card games to pass time and be merry! These were definitely moments to be appreciated and grateful for and I definitely want to practice this even when I am back to civilization.
At Dingboche where the guides informed us that this would probably be the last stop before we lose all connectivity! Charging our phones cost us between USD2-5 per hour above 5k metres 🤣
Was this hike a story to be told for generations? Certainly yes! Would I do it over again? No.
Another hike on another mountain? Absolutely!
My Everest Base Camp Hike Experience
Part 1: The Fruition
It was a restless week night when I was feeling stuck and alone in my dimly lit room, I stumbled upon an article that spoke about creating ONE once in a lifetime experience with a story to share for generations. Since I’ve always been a person who wanted to do things that are distinctively unconventional, my sleepy eyes lit up and I started to read up on Everest Base Camp (EBC).
Being an avid hiker and a nature lover, to conquer another mountain seemed like something I’d never say no to, but this time I wanted some extra spice – to experience a different culture and to really push myself out of my comfort zone. It was none other than a 13-day hike up to Everest Base Camp which stands at 5,364m above sea level that would fill all the criteria for this grand adventure.
I managed to cajole a group of 5 other friends to join me on this hike and set about to find a hiking agency that would guide us there!
Part 2: The Prep
Reading up blog articles online, I found that the trail to EBC is definitely not a walk in the park, requiring a high level of fitness, as well as the tenacity and dedication to endure 6-12 hours of hiking daily, for 13 days in a row. I had my tunnel vision set on making it, by hook or by crook!
Every day without fail leading up to the day of departure to Kathmandu on the 30th of March 2019, I took daily brisk walks that would last me about 3 hours at least and covered up to 16-20km with strength training for my legs on alternate days. Juggling working full-time, I could only do it after dinner and my training would usually last me past midnight accompanied with a motivational podcast or upbeat music playing in my ears. This prepping journey lasted for at least 3 months, with it being more intense and me getting anxious as the date draws near.
Looking classy awaiting for our flight at KLIA – Kathmandu! (2 more friends departing from SG & HK)
Part 3: The Adventure
On the 31st of March, our adventure began on a flight to Lukla, the world’s most renowned and dangerous airport’s runway due to its short length which hangs off a cliff. Just a few weeks ago, there was a fatal plane crash in that airport. There was no other way to get there. Hence, in Yeti Airlines we trust!
Shortest airway hanging off the cliff at Lukla
Thankfully, we arrived without a hitch and upon stepping out of the aircraft, I took in my very first breath of the Himalayan fresh air. The simple sight of local kids playing at the side of a muddy road, just smiling and waving at us walking past brought contentment to my heart, reminding me that I should be grateful for the blessings in my life.
When we started the hike on the 1st of April 2019 from Lukla to Phakding, I was STILL thinking to myself if I can really April’s fool myself out of this. Every day for the next 13 days had its ups and downs, with unforgiving weather that made the hike more challenging. Some days were blessed with bright sunshine, whilst some days we were challenged with torrential rain and muddy / slippery terrain. With 8-10kgs on our backs carrying water, food, medication and extra clothes for emergencies, we had to carefully plan based on the weather and the expected duration of the hike, as well as the length of journey in kms.
Still all smiles before taking our first step of our hike, not knowing what to expect and what’s ahead awaiting us.
Being an animal lover, one daily aspect that I witnessed that brought me heartfelt moments was that livestocks such as yaks, donkeys and horses are given priority on terrains and full respect, where hikers are obligated to give way. These livestocks played important roles in the Sherpa and hikers community, where they carried necessities such as gas tongs and other large and heavy items that made sure lodges had enough supplies to maintain one of Nepal’s driving economy, which is tourism. Plus, they are usually oblivious and unaware of what’s on their backs and may stop midway for a breather. (Sometimes to take a dump in the middle of the road) so you have full responsibility for your own surrounding and dodging a livestock and respecting its way, which I found to be something really endearing to watch daily.
A yak found its way up a slope to take a grand dump, in which its droppings were falling onto passerbys lol!
My proudest ‘National Geographic’ shot by me of my favourite animal in Nepal! Gigantic, magnificent yet gentle.
A typical daily hike towards EBC started off with breakfast with hot tea, energy bars/drinks and high energy. Aside from getting myself to the destination, I never stopped appreciating the beauty of my surroundings. On most days, the terrains are mostly flat, with some ascents and descends throughout.
I thought I was on Mt. Fuji at one point.
My fellow comrades whom I gathered from MY, SG and HK to join me on this adventure!
Namche Bazaar, biggest Sherpa Town, located in Khumbu Village.
One day, it was snowing heavily on our hike from Dingboche to Lobuche with temperatures dropping to below -15 degrees Celsius and the entire terrain was covered in snow. The terrain was also narrow, if we took a wrong step, we would slip and fall. Visibility was also vague, we couldn’t see the direction. Relying on the shoes that we were wearing to maintain grip and working together as a team to ensure everyone was safe was essential. On this day, the 6.6km hike lasted us 12 grueling hours in the snow. The snow didn’t stop, we were drenched, cold and hungry but we were still determined to reach our destination. Baby steps in the right direction, patience and bravery were what brought us through. I will always remember this day whenever things get tough and when I want to give up. I will remember how I was able to surprise myself in reaching my destination although I was mentally and physically ready to give up.
Started the Journey to Lobuche with clear skies and no signs of snow! On mountains, weathers can change drastically and without warning!